Dirt is matter in the wrong place...
You should absolutely free your bike from the dirt of the season, as the dirt attracts moisture and can easily rust. Appropriate motorcycle cleaners are best suited for this purpose. After a short period of immersion, scrub off with sponge and brush and rinse neatly with water. After that, you should drain the machine and let it dry properly. If you don't have a suitable storage option for your motorcycle and you want to survive the winter outdoors halfway well, corrosion protection and the cover with a well-ventilated tarpaulin is mandatory. You should polish the paint and preserve it with wax and creep oil on all plugs ensures a permanently good connection.
Well lubricated is half won...
Ideally, you'll make an oil change including oil filter and sealing ring. You pay attention to the right oil and the right quantity, both information can be found in the operating instructions of your motorcycle.
Would have, would have, motorcycle chain...
Check the chain throughhang and adjust it if necessary. For information, refer to the driver's manual or the operating instructions. Grease the chain neatly.
I Cardan, You Chain...
If your gimbal housing has a lubricating nipple, you would have to press 2-3 strokes of grease into it. A gimbal oil change is only necessary after the maintenance interval has expired.
If the battery is wide, you know it's Christmas time...
Disconnect the battery and store it dry and, above all, frost-proof. If necessary, check acidity and, if necessary, refill distilled water. Check the state of charge regularly and reload every four to six weeks (avoid deep discharge!). Or use a suitable freshener. The battery can then remain permanently connected for hibernation, the activity of the battery is monitored with minimal energy expenditure. This ensures that the battery is kept safe, stress-free and without overcharging on voltage.
But I'm flat...
Check the tyre pressure and, for hibernation, like to put a little (>0.5 bar) more pressure on it. So that in spring not only everything runs smoothly but above all also round, you should relieve the wheels of your machine. Simply jack up and, if necessary, push a wooden block or jack under the engine block. The whole thing, of course, is so that the machine cannot overturn!
Two pumping stations meet. "Well, how's it going?" "Normal, and you?" "Super!" ...
If you should fill the steel tank of your machine with fuel before hibernation, it is protected from corrosion. For plastic tanks, you should drain the fuel and store it in a suitable canister.
Nothing but hot air...
Lowering the air pressure in struts and fork slightly, which saves unnecessary strain on the sealing rings.
So that the carburetor does not become a failure...
Empty float chambers to prevent the fuel from becoming entangled and thus clogging the injection nozzles. To do this, close the gasoline tap and open the drain screw on the float chamber. Collect the fuel in a container.
Do you have anything to drink?" "Water" What harder?" "Ice"...
Check water levels and pay attention to sufficient frost protection!
And another sparkling idea...
Turn out spark plugs, clean and check if necessary. Before turning the candles again, inject some engine oil into the combustion chambers.
Otherwise, we have to bridge the harsh winter months with hopefully numerous visits to the pages of Motorradtest.de. Because we have set ourselves the goal of producing exciting content as much as possible in winter. And for all those who (like us) also in winter quite dare an exit: Please adjust the driving style to the weather and try to wash salt immediately again from the machine. In this sense: Come through the winter well ;-)!
Series: Legendary Motorcycles. Episode 7: Egli Kawasaki MRD 1
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